Getting to Petauke

Lusaka: I’ve been here for several days now when I suddenly start feeling sick. I struggle with a fever all night. After 24 hours, it’s all over. It might also be because of the malaria medication I took right away. Julien has also arrived in town, meanwhile. More than a year ago, I met the cyclist from French-speaking Switzerland in Angola. Now our paths have crossed again. Together, we ride along the well-maintained road to Petauke. That’s where the famous “Old Petauke Road” begins. Almost every touring cyclist who rides through Zambia knows this road.

Old Petauke Road

The first day is still relatively easy. It’s more downhill than uphill. The gravel road is in good condition, and we can ride on it almost the entire way. Today, we’re spared the trouble of pushing our bikes. We pass through many small villages with children asking us for candy. A sure sign that we aren’t the only cyclists who’ve passed through here. We spend the night with “His Royal Highness,” the regional chief. As befits someone of his stature, he has a large palace, an almost even larger TV, and the best internet connection in the area thanks to Starlink.

into the wildlife corridor

The next morning, we set out early and, after a few kilometers, sign the local rangers’ “guest book.” From here on, things get interesting. Over the next 80 kilometers or so, there’s a chance we’ll encounter wild animals. The road gets rougher. Sometimes we’re riding on nothing more than a narrow single-track trail. To our frustration, the sand also gets deeper in some spots, forcing us to push our bikes a few times. The presence of elephants is evident from large piles of dung on and beside the trail. Today, however, we only encounter wild animals on our plates. In a small village, we’re served hippopotamus meat. One of the animals was recently shot by a hunting tourist. The meat stays with the local population. Just a few kilometers further on, we pitch our tent at the Malama Umoyo Bush Camp, owned by Chris, a Welshman. As long as no other tourists are occupying the expensive chalets, it’s possible to camp. On Chris’s advice and in consultation with the locals, our campsite is right on the cliff overlooking the Luangwa River. Since elephants are afraid of heights and don’t dare come here—and lions prefer to walk along the narrow path—a spectacular sunset and sunrise the next morning are included. The hippos are bathing in the river. The surrounding bush is teeming with life. It almost feels like being in Jurassic Park.

Wildlife

After a quiet night without lions or elephants, we set off for Mfuwe, 50 kilometers away. Soon, we notice the first signs of animals on the road—which is now easier to drive on again—as we pass the expensive lodges. Judging by the footprints, lions, elephants, giraffes, and antelopes seem to cross the gravel road here regularly. We see elephants crossing the road several hundred meters away from us. We’ll see even more of them today—fortunately, at a safe distance beside the road. We don’t spot any lions—but they’ve probably known about our passage for quite some time. Instead, we encounter a few tsetse flies. The little pests even manage to bite through our clothing. The painful bites are still itchy two days later. Without any further incidents, we reach the Wildlife Camp in Mfuwe a short time later. The camp truly lives up to its name. Elephants wander through the camp several times, and some people even encounter lions when they go to the bathroom at night. The view over the Luangwa River feels almost like something out of a National Geographic film.

Farewell

In the end, we stay here for three days. That’s partly because the malaria I caught in Lusaka flares up again and keeps me down for several days. I experience everything from feverish dreams to an elevated resting heart rate and a poor appetite. Julien, on the other hand, eats enough for two during the break. It’s only after three more days at another nearby camp that I’m finally able to continue my journey, feeling recovered. From now on, I’ll have to do everything on my own again. In Chipata, Julien and I go our separate ways again. We’d been traveling together for just under three weeks. It was a fun time. And it showed me yet another way to travel. Instead of wild camping, with his open and humorous manner, he went to hospitals and churches and often arranged a nice spot for us to camp. Sometimes even with a hot shower. He’s continuing on to Malawi; for me, the journey continues to the southwest of the country.

Useful information

The route: komoot ridewithgps
Our Campground in Mfuwe/South Luangwa: Wildlife Camp (Camping – 15 USD per person)